Dock De-Icers 101 - The Basics of Choosing a Dock De-Icer to Protect Your Dock From Ice Damage

!±8± Dock De-Icers 101 - The Basics of Choosing a Dock De-Icer to Protect Your Dock From Ice Damage

In some parts of the country, ice can cause a lot of problems for dock owners. According to the boating industry publication "Trade Only", this damage amounts to millions each year. Many private dock owners watch in frustration each year as ice slowly rips their dock to shreds. There are three main was ice damages boat docks.

One way this happens is if the frozen surface of a body of water slowly shifts with wind or current. This can be imperceptibly slow, but there can be a lot of mass behind the motion - Enough to crush a dock.

Another common problem is heave or "Piling Jacking" which occurs when water levels change. Ice forms around pilings during low water and then floats when the water levels rise, pulling the piling from the bottom. When the water drops again, a new band of ice forms at the water line and the process is repeated.

The final source of damage occurs when loose slabs of floating ice, driven by the wind or currents collide with the dock. These battering rams don't have to be moving very fast to cause a lot of damage.

The best way to avoid dock damage is to remove the dock from the water during the winter months. However, that isn't always possible. Fortunately, there are a couple options to help protect docks from ice. The first solution is called a "Dock Bubbler". Dock bubblers consist of a compressed air source and perforated pipe or hose that is secured to the lake or river bottom around the perimeter of the dock. If set up correctly, a bubbler will emit a curtain of bubbles that will cause water circulation. The bubbles will push warmer water from below to the surface to the top, melting the ice.

The second option is to install an in-water de-icer. In-water de-icers, sometimes called dock or marine de-icers have a submersible motor ranging between 1/4 HP and 1 HP that drives a propeller. These units are suspended below the dock or from a float anchored just outside of the dock. In-water de-icers create a flow of water, again, pulling warmer water from below the surface and directing it at the target area of the surface. If suspended vertically, a dock de-ier will create a roughly round area of cleared ice. If suspended at an angel they will clear an elliptical area. They need to clear an area larger than the dock, forming open water around the pilings or floating portions of the structure. In-water de-icers can be installed even after ice forms, buy cutting a hole and suspending the unit. Under normal circumstances, the ice will be cleared from the target area in a matter of hours.

There are several popular brands of in-water de-icers that are readily available, and they vary in unit power, voltage and cord length. Voltage will be determined by the power source available at the dock. 110v is the most common, but many docks are equipped with 220v. You will need a cord long enough to allow you to position your unit in the water, but plug in to a dry ground-fault interrupted power source or suitable extension cord. The connection will need to be located where it is not in danger of being submerged. Typical cord lengths range from 25' to as long as 150'. The power of the unit is determined by your typical ice clearing needs. A handy de-icer performance table can help you decide what size unit you'll need for your dock application.

As you can imagine, running one of these electric de-icing options around the clock for months at a time can run up the electric bill. Many dock owners set up a special thermostat or timer that controls the operation of the bubbler or de-icer. These units are located above the water and control power to the de-icer unit. The thermostats will turn on when air temperature drops below a set point, and will turn off when the temperature rises above a set point. That means that if the temperature rises above freezing for several days, or (or even for the afternoon) the de-icer is shut down and saves power. Note that a lot of the thermostats are calibrated either for fresh water or salt water, so make sure you choose one that is appropriate for your application.

Timers work on a similar principal, allowing the deicer to work for several hours, then shut down for several hours. It may take a little trial and error to determine the optimal time sequence for your particular conditions.

While deicers will protect against ice forming around a dock, and can be used to form an open water break to keep the shifting ice from crushing a dock, it won't protect against floating ice. In some areas, particularly on rivers, large chunks of ice propelled by the current or wind can act as a battering ram, pummeling docks. If you are faced with this danger, you may need to place protective pylons, or floating booms to deflect moving ice away from the dock and shore side structures.

Dock De-Icers 101 - The Basics of Choosing a Dock De-Icer to Protect Your Dock From Ice Damage

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How To Pick An Air Compressor For Your Woodworking Shop

!±8± How To Pick An Air Compressor For Your Woodworking Shop

I started out my woodworking career with a quarter-sheet electric sander, quickly graduated to a random orbit electric disc sander and finally realized that I could substantially shorten sanding time with an air palm sander. I settled on a 5" Dynabrade sander and Sears 3HP air compressor. It took me less than an hour to realize my mistake: The little compressor I bought could not begin to keep up air demands of the air sander. It would run out of air pressure almost immediately and the air sander would slow down to the point of being useless. I would then have to wait for several minutes for the pressure to build up again to get another minute of sanding.

To make matters worse, I had three people hired as sanders and so I would need to keep three machines running at top speed all day long. I did some math and discovered that I would need a ten horsepower air compressor with a large tank to do this. I was lucky to find a used one for not too much money but it required three phase power and lots of it. More money went out for an electrician to wire it up to the building's 208 volt 3-phase power. The big air compressor was so loud it could be heard all over the building and down the block but it powered those three sanders from dawn to dusk. The good news is that it paid for itself in saved sanding time very quickly.

Air sanders are aggressive and efficient. They are light in weight when compared to their lesser electric cousins. My sanders took to them immediately and production took off. I was as happy as they were. Soon there was another machine besides the air compressor required having large amounts of air in the shop: an Onsrud inverted pin router. It was also great to be able to blow sawdust of benches and machine while cleaning upon the shop at the end of the day. The compressor was also used to spray finishes on the completed furniture.

Years later, I built a smaller woodworking shop in my home which only required one air sander running at a time. For that shop, I purchased an air compressor half the size and isolated in a soundproof room in one corner of the shop. I ran ¾" galvanized pipe under the shop floor to three regulators at three different convenient locations. The machine I purchased for that shop as a 5 HP Ingersoll Rand model with an 80 gallon tank. At the 80 PSI required by my Dynabrade sander, the compressor would produce enough air all day long. I must say that that compressor was very well built. All I had to do was keep an eye on the oil level in the sight glass. At night, I would turn off the master air valve on the side of the machine, leaving the electricity on, to silence the compressor for the night.

I must assume that, having read this far, you have some interest in using an air compressor to power air tools in your shop. Most likely, a 2-stage reciprocating air compressor will fill the needs of a small to medium shop. As a rule of thumb, a 5 HP air compressor will power one air sander, a 7.5 HP machine will power two and a 10 HP machine will be needed for three sanders.

The size of the compressor's air tank is an important consideration: The smaller the tank, the more often the compressor will need to cycle on and off, This is hard on both the motor and compressor pump over time and it uses more electricity. I would not even consider an air compressor used to power an air sander with less than a 60 gallon tank and I would feel much more comfortable with an 80 gallon tank.

The type of electrical power required by an air compressor is another consideration. If you have three-phase power available at your location, fine. Three phase motors tend to use electricity a bit more efficiently than single-phase motors. Large air compressors will all require 3-phase power but the 5 HP models come either way. If you do not have 3-phase power available, you can manufacture it with a rotary or electronic phase converter as I did in my smaller shop. Whether you use single or three phase power, you will need 230V AC power for single-phase motors and 208 or 220V AC for the three-phase variety. Be sure to check the voltage and amperage requirements of any air compressor before you buy it. Electricians can be expensive.

A two-stage compressor pump is a must for a machine of this size. Two-stage machines have two cylinders, one larger than the other. Air is first introduced into the large cylinder where it is partially compressed and sent to the smaller cylinder for final compression into the tank. As air is compressed, heat is produced and so a good machine will always have a finned intercooler built in.

Compression not only produces heat but squeezes water out of the air which ends up in the tank. Tanks can rust internally over time and if this is not kept in check, the rusted air tank can eventually explode causing tremendous damage and even death. That is why it is critically important to drain the tank of water every day. Most machines come equipped with a drain valve at the lowest point of the tank. If you don't want to spray water all over the floor under the compressor, you may want to consider piping it from the valve to another location such as under the floor or into a drain. Piped water will flow uphill into a sink because it is being pushed out of the tank by compressed air.

You will need at least one regulator and a water trap in line before it. These are not expensive. A regulator allows you to set the correct air pressure for the tool you will be using (say, 80 PSI) instead of tank pressure (say, 175 PSI).

Air output of a compressor pump is expressed in standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM) or just cubic feet per minute (CFM). Not all 5 HP compressors put out the same volume of air per minute. This is a function not only of motor horsepower but also the efficiency of the compressor pump the motor is powering. The higher the CFM, the less your compressor will have to cycle on and off to keep up with the demands you are putting on it. A small compressor pump on a huge tank will produce no more air than on a small tank. The only difference will be in the number of times the compressor cycles on an off each hour and the time it takes to recompress the tank on each cycle. In the end, you need to pay attention to SCFM (or CFM) more than you do motor horsepower or tank size. Air flow is the end product of any compressor and the CFM must be sufficient to the job at hand.

All reciprocating air compressors throw out oil with the air they compress. When the tank reaches it's designed maximum pounds per square inch, a pressure switch will interrupt electrical power to the motor. Simultaneously, a certain amount of oily air will be released into the shop environment. You may see oil collecting on the wall behind the compressor and on the pump and compressor as well over time. This is not cause for alarm but periodic cleaning may be needed.

Reciprocating (piston type) air compressors make noise and this is something you need to plan on for the sake of yourself, your workers and others who surround your location. If quiet is an important criteria, you may want to consider spending the extra money for a screw-type air compressor. Screw-type compressors have no pistons or cylinders. Air is compressed in turbine fashion by a large metal screw, turning at a very high speed. These compressors just purr compared to the reciprocating type but they are very expensive. They sound more like a quiet jet engine than a loud truck motor.

I hope this article has been useful to you. Purchasing an air compressor for your woodworking shop can be a fairly expensive investment when you consider piping, regulators, hoses, water traps, wiring and electricians. You will want to buy a machine that is equal to the jobs you will be doing but no more than that. Buying the wrong air compressor can be a very costly mistake. My intention in writing this has been to give you the knowledge you will need to select the right one.

How To Pick An Air Compressor For Your Woodworking Shop

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Residential Electrical Explains Converters and Voltage

!±8± Residential Electrical Explains Converters and Voltage

Many people who travel to or from the United States run into problems when they try to use electronics like a laptop or hair dryer. This is because the American 110 volt power system is different than the European 220 volt electricity. Without a converter, devices can fail or become damaged. Even the electrical system in use can be damaged. Always use caution when operating devices in another country and check the voltage before plugging them in.

Voltage Difference between US and Europe

The United States is one of the only countries that currently use the 110 volt/60 hertz electrical system. Most countries use a higher voltage system that handles 220 volts at 50 hertz. Appliances and electronics in these countries are designed to only work with the electrical system in that area. Because the voltage in Europe is twice that of the American system, plugging American devices into a European electrical system without a converter can destroy the device and even cause a fire. Devices intended for the 60 hertz cycle may not be able to function on the 50 hertz system as well.

Using Products Abroad

Using your devices in another country often requires the use of a converter. To see if the device needs a converter, check the information panel. Many manufacturers design electronics to work with range of voltages and these products will list acceptable input levels as 110-240 volts. If a specific voltage is required, the item needs a converter to work outside this range. Always look at the wattage requirement of the product before buying a converter. A residential electrician can recommend a good converter that has a higher wattage rating than the device, which prevents malfunction.

Using the American 110 Volt System

The main advantage most residential electricians see in the American system is the safety. If a live wire running on an 110v system is accidently touched there is a lower risk of harm. The chance of a fire from a short circuit is also lower on the 110v system.

Advantages of the 220 Volt System

Although it has more safety risks, the 220v system used throughout Europe can reduce energy use and the electrical load.

There is no clear winner between the 110 volt and 220 volt electrical systems. It is important to remember the differences and risks, however, when travelling to a different country. Using electrical devices on a system they were not made for can cause fires or cause the device to malfunction or break. A trained residential electrician can recommend the right converter to use electrical items on any voltage system.

Residential Electrical Explains Converters and Voltage

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DC to AC Converter Power Car Charger Inverter Adapter

!±8± DC to AC Converter Power Car Charger Inverter Adapter

This is a very portable power car charger inverter adapter. Converting DC power outlet into an AC power outlet for some small electronic appliances. Limited for DC 12V car only.

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Power Bright VC1000W Voltage Transformer 1000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

!±8± Power Bright VC1000W Voltage Transformer 1000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

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This is a voltage converter or transformer that can be used as a step up transformer in 110/120 volt countries or as a step down transformer in 220/230/240 volt countries. This heavy duty voltage transformer can be used for continuous duty. It will convert voltages of 220-240 volts to 110-120 and will also convert voltages from 110-120 to 220-240 volts.

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